Well, as promised, the second day of our trip proved considerably more interesting than the first. The day did kick off with a minor disappointment as we had risen bright and early with the intention of observing the sunrise; we were to find, at 6am, the sun long since in the sky. This disappointment was tempered by our discovery shortly after that our view was facing west and we would not have been able to catch a beautiful sunrise anyway.
We then set out for Phnom Penh’s railway station, hoping to confirm that outbound trains were still extant. Sadly, they were not; the station was derelict and decaying former locomotives and cars sat on the disused tracks. We did have a good time fooling around around, inside and on top of them, however. I do believe that the top of a railroad car qualifies as the most interesting place I’ve got myself into/onto. In any case, we had a ridiculously good time in a dilapidated, hollow shell of a former transport hub. This trip is certainly living up to its reputation, established from the outset (*shock* “You’re going to Cambodia? For…?”), of being rather… unconventional.
Our next destination was rather more mundane. Phnom Penh’s Central Market is a big place, although it still has nothing on Chatuchak, obviously. We breakfasted on some very familiar fare – chicken rice and chicken noodle soup, washed down with tea and followed with freshly-fried you tiao – after which we took a couple rounds around the market, taking in the bewildering array of fresh produce on offer. These included frogs still breathing after being skinned… incompletely – not a sight for the squeamish – contented-looking live chickens (anyone ever seen discontented chicken?) and various varieties of fish, some still gasping. Despite the claustrophobic surroundings, it was an interesting stroll, and let’s just say you are most likely to know for sure you are getting your goods the freshest they can be.
We then went on to a shopping mall, which was special only because it was Phnom Penh’s (and perhaps Cambodia’s) only shopping mall. Otherwise it was nothing out of the ordinary, although we got some cheap Gelato ice-cream to help ward off the oppressive weather.
We followed the morning’s excursion with a trip to the National Museum and then the Grand Palace, which proved to be standard tourist fare. The weather was murderous, and we were not above pretending to be especially interested in exhibits next to fans providing some sweet, cool relief. We learnt bits and pieces about the Khmer Empire, then Cambodian royalty, but it was pretty light stuff, or would have been had the weather not been so incredibly horrid.
Going around Phnom Penh, we managed to get used to a few things. One, the heat, aided by Singapore’s own current heatwave. Two, the absolute anarchy on the roads. There are few traffic lights and many roads do not even have proper lane dividers. Pedestrian crossings are rare and ignored when present. A sort of order has evolved in the chaos such that the roads seem fairly safe despite the absence of all these things which so many the world over have come to take for granted, but I still can’t help feeling that I’m taking my life in my hands every time I have to cross a main road. I suppose it’s fortunate that there actually aren’t that many vehicles on the roads.
Three is of course the swarms of touts, but we had experience in Thailand. Cambodian touts seem more persistent, however; some will make persistent efforts to persuade you to use their services. But I’m pretty sure that angmoh tourists get it worse.
All in all, it has been a good day’s sight-seeing. Tommorrow we take on Cambodia’s dark past in Tuo Sleng and the Killing Fields. I’m looking forward to it.
- Chun Wee
